Thursday, September 13, 2007



It has been a while since my last post, but I have been busy with school starting again and other obligations. I have made progress, however, and have a lot to report.

St. Louis has cold winters, so I decided while waiting for the battery charger to come in from Belktronix in CA to do some work on the heater.



The 1500 watt heater and it's control circuitry has been completed. It gets very hot quickly, but posed some challenges getting it to run properly. The core is made from a "Titan" brand heater that cost $19 at Walmart. After doing some testing on the plastic it was mounted in, I decided to cut out a piece of acrylic referred to by many as Corian (tm). They make countertops from it and I have made a lot of the insulators and other components from it. It has a higher melting point than the frame the heating elements are mounted in, so no problem there. The photo shows the Saab heater core on the left and the all electric version on the right. The heater is ceramic, and puts out more heat as more air blows through it.

The Saab uses a sophisticated environmental control system that regulates by temperature rather than the simple knob type heat/AC control, so I had to design a circuit that would control the heating elements and prevent them from being on if the fan was off or running too slowly. A set of relays, under the hood, (also installed now) will switch on the 144 volts to the heater and the controller on the side of the heater box will take care of the rest.

For the techno types out there, I used an LM339 quad comparator to monitor the fan voltage and shut down the relays if the speed of the fan is too slow. Due to the design, the voltage is zero when the fan is at full speed. At about 6.5 volts I have it adjusted to shut the heater off. It keeps the heater box from melting if little or no air is blowing. The motor that used to open the air mixing flap now trips a microswitch to turn on the heater. The piece holding everything is also machined from acrylic and is bolted to the side of the heater box on the passenger side. I have some options open with the circuit to include some temperature regulation as well at a later time. It all works as predicted. If all else fails I incorporated a thermal limiter on the heating element.
So it was one of the more inexpensive
parts of the project to do.

Currently I am designing a frequency to voltage converter to restore the tachometer. I should have something to report on that soon.

I promised in my last post to include a photo of the Kenwood/Sirius satellite radio I got off Ebay. I am really pleased with how it works and all it does. I have less than $50 in the whole rig and it even gets the satellite broadcasts when I hook it up! I have to pull the dash front out to install the volt meters and it will be put in at that time.


Above: The control interface

Left: The Ceramic Heater installed in heater box. The wiring runs through the old heater core tubes out to the front of the firewall.







Kenwood Sirius Radio/CD Unit


With the arrival of the battery charger Tuesday, things are getting close now!


With a battery pack and a bit of luck I will soon be going down the road.

7 Comments:

At 8:31 AM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hello Mark,
I am also the owner of a 1995 Saab 900 SE with the V-6. I recently lost the engine in my vehicle (cause still undetermined) and would like to replace the engine. Is there a engine source you could recommend.

Thanks

 
At 8:57 AM , Blogger Electrosaab said...

The best engine is the Opel version if you can find it. It connects identically. Be prepared to spend about $3K for one though. Junkyard engines are still $1K or more and may have the timing belt tensioners that trashed yours, so beware. I got my car with the blown engine and never considered replacing it. You might look on Ebay, I see engines there from time to time. New ones, used, etc.

 
At 9:54 AM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Mark,
I think your heater idea is pure genius. Is the air for the A/C evaporator going to flow thru the 6 inch square heating element? To cool the car the CFM required for the A/C is much higher. I'm anxious to see how well the A/C works for you. Here in NC the summers are triple H (Hazy, Hot and Humid) and the lack of A/C is a show stopper for me. EV converters blow of A/C due to the range impact, so I'm very interested in the implementation details of the original factor A/C since you are one of the few doing it I've found.

Don Miller

 
At 10:58 AM , Blogger Electrosaab said...

Actually air mixes with the heater when you add heat in a normal system. Usually the air flap blocks the heat from doing this. In an EV it is not needed. In normal A/C mode the air just goes to the upper vents and not through the heater. :-)

 
At 1:29 AM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

Thanks for the Belktronix related posts.
Any chance you can make it San Diego, CA in January for our Electric Dragin' EVent?

www.electricdragin.com

 
At 6:02 PM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

HI MARK
I HAVE BEEN A SAAB TEC FOR 20+ years
best thing i have seen done with one
of theas 900s price for parts is outrages posibly cheaper to go electric I have an old dodge colt
that i want to convert trying to scrounge some parts
any way cool car

 
At 11:09 AM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hello Mark,

some monthe ago I had the idea to rebuild my old Saab 900 convertible to an electrical vehicle. Today I found your blog.
My name is Bernhard Huelsmann from Germany. First of all you did a great job. You used the wrap9 motor. My question do you thing it's strong enought. I need to reach minimum 75 mph for short time during overtaking trucks.
What are your experiences with yor max. speed and the accelleration maybe from 0-50 and 60 mph.
It will help me to find the right configuration.
We already have some experts here in Germany which use the www.evsource.com materials.
But the total weight of the saab 900 convertible will be approx. 1500 kg (3306 lbs)
It will be great to here from you.
With best regards
Bernhard Huelsmann-e.
bhe-nkt@t-online.de

 

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